- Sanding
should be done as close to finishing as possible to assure a wood
profile remains for finish adhesion.
- The
coarser the sandpaper grit used, the darker the stain color produced
due to penetration.
- Caution
- Sanding belt will polish the wood as grit is worn off. Worn
sanding belts can cause intense heat (up to 400 degrees) and produce
a burned surface that restricts finish penetration.
- To
avoid scratches in the wood, always use a series of grits when
sanding and each subsequent sanding grit should be just one grit
finer than the previous paper used. A sequence to use could be 100
grit followed by 120,140.
- Most
fine woods are not sanded beyond the 140 grit before finishing. When
using solid wood and veneers on the same project, the veneers are
traditionally sanded with one finer grit that you sand the solid
wood. This will tend to give you better uniformity of stain colors.
-
Sanding
new (white) wood, should be done with an open coat type paper that
is made with silicone carbide or aluminum oxide. Never use silicon
papers on unfinished wood. These papers are recommended for the
sanding of finishes only.
Finish
Sanding New Wood (Before applying stain or clear coats on closed grain
hardwoods: Maple, Birch, Beech, etc.)
- Finish
sand with 120 grit paper, be sure sanding belts are not worn
-
Thin
first coat 10-15%, or use a vinyl sealer as first coat.
NOTE: It is important on closed grain hardwoods
that there is a good wood profile for the first coat of finish to be
anchored to. |
